Additional Pages To Check Out

Friday, June 27, 2014

Introduction To BoPET (Mylar) Bags and Oxygen Absorbers

I've been pretty busy over the last week or so. Between packing up almost everything in my home so I could deep clean, sorting everything and getting rid of things that I didn't really need anymore, and taking a day trip to meet someone new, I've been too busy to post even the smallest bit of content for you all. I apologize. For quite some time I've been searching far and wide for the best information I can find regarding every aspect of storing food, so I figured that since I feel like I know quite a bit about this now, it would be a good thing to start back up with. There's a variety of options to choose from when it comes to storing foods long term, but in this post I'm going to focus on the use of Mylar bags and oxygen absorbers. I'm going to share some of the better information and videos I've found, but I don't own any of these videos or articles. They were all created and posted by someone else. Clicking each name will take you to their site, profile, or channel, and title names will take you to the original location I found them at. Regardless of what source good information comes from, I'm happy to share it when I know it's correct and will come in handy.


Dry beans, rice, dried corn, whole wheat, oats, rye, barley, pastas, white sugar, salt, flour, whole spices, and powdered milk are just some of the foods that I feel need to be stocked in the biggest quantities. These foods, along with so many others, can be stored in Mylar bags with oxygen absorbers which lengthens their shelf life. Before we get into this, 'Mylar' is actually a trade name, just like "Hostaphan' and 'Melinex.' A bag made of BoPET (biaxially-oriented polyethylene terephthalate) is what I'm specifically talking about. The science behind this material is very simple, especially when combined with the oxygen absorbers. It keeps out the main elements that make food go bad: oxygen, light, and water. Storing these packages in buckets or containers with tight fitting lids will give an extra barrier from the elements and protect it from additional problems like insects and rodents. A solar blanket made of this material can also be cut down and sealed to the preferred sizes to suit your needs. 

Using oxygen absorbers with this Mylar packaging really aids in extending the shelf life of the foods being stored, but knowing which size to use is important to ensure the oxygen is removed right. The video 'Selecting the Proper Oxygen Absorber Size When Storing Food Long Term' is a mathematical breakdown of the selection process, it was posted on YouTube by TacticalGunGuy. Don't just click and watch the video, make sure you click his name to check out his YouTube channel, be sure and subscribe if you like it. He's got some good videos. Mostly regarding tactical topics (of course), but those will come in handy... especially since that isn't currently something I'm very familiar with and will probably post very little about unless that changes. Although these oxygen absorbers are great for a long list of foods, you need to steer clear of them when you're packing things like brown or white sugar and drink mixes. These need some oxygen to keep them clumping as hard as a brick These oxygen absorbers can be bought online and in some retail stores, but according to the video 'Homemade O2 Absorbers' posted by Irish_17, it's fairly easy make your own. That may be something I'll have to try some day soon.

Once you know the guidelines for what kind of bags to get and what sizes of oxygen absorbers you need, you'll of course need to know how to do the actual repackaging. There are commercial irons, but they could cost hundreds of dollars when bought new. It may be something you'd like to invest in, but clothes irons and hair straighteners are a much cheaper device and are just as effective. You can watch the video 'Working With Mylar Bags 101' by 7TrumpetsPrepper for the general idea of how to fill and seal smaller quantities. Even though I prefer to store things in smaller packages because it seems easier to transport, you may find it more convenient to use larger bags. In that case, I suggest watching Bison Risk Management seal up some large bags in the video 'Tutorial: Long-term Food Storage In Mylar Bags Ans Food Grade Buckets.' Again, don't just watch these videos, check out their channels and be sure to subscribe if you like them. Every bit of correct information, regardless of who it comes from, could be the difference between survival and death if S really does HTF.

Here are some additional articles you can read over, it's just some interesting explanations, tidbits, tips, and info:

Survival Basics: What The Heck Are Oxygen Absorbers?

31 Gallon Garbage Cans For Food Storage

Using Mylar Bags In Food Storage




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Don't stop your research about Mylar bags and oxygen absorbers with this post, take some time and look up more information on them. It'll be well worth your time. Over the next few posts I'll be covering additional options for preparation and repackaging to lengthen the shelf life of different foods, so be sure and check back in. In the mean time, you should check out more information on Mylar bags, and maybe even do a little pricing so you could get your own. You can find some really good deals, just make sure you look at feedback to make sure it's the real deal and not just painted plastic. Don't forget that I'm interested in checking out other blogs and sites that I may not have stumbled across yet, so please share yours or your favorites if you have them. Please take a second to subscribe, share this with others who may find this useful, and don't forget to comment.


Thursday, June 19, 2014

What To Include In Your Initial Stock

Did you look at the posts with cheap foods and supplies to buy? If you're anything like I was when I started prepping, you're probably thinking things like 'that'll take too long to get everything' or 'what if SHTF when I'm only 3 weeks into the list and I have to try to survive with just 24 cans of beans?'... While those lists are good ones to buy from on a regular basis, I can understand the pressure to get an initial stock of food and supplies started. I thought about the first splurge of things I bought, and decided to make a list of the top things that would give you a great start if you have the money to spare.


Food, Drink Mixes, and Water:

20lbs of rice - Keep in mind that white rice has a longer shelf life than brown rice.

20lbs of dry beans - If you're worried about a means of cooking, then you could go for all canned beans, but it's going to cost quite a bit more. Also keep in mind that 1 pound of dried beans can make at least 10 servings, while one can will only provide about 3.

20 cans of meats. I wouldn't just get Spam either, mix it up a bit with tuna, chicken breast, canned pork, salmon, or whatever else you like.

20 cans of vegetables.

20 cans of fruits.

2 of the biggest Tang drink mixes you can find. I say Tang because it has 100% of the recommended daily allowance for vitamin C, which is necessary for a healthy immune system. It also has vitamin B which helps nerve function, and vitamin A that enhances eyesight.

2 of the biggest pre-sweetened powder drink mixes you can find. If they're pre-sweetened it'll save you on sugar, and the flavors will dull any odd tastes in water that you may have to filter and purify.

2 large bags of flour. I'll share some easy recipes in a future post for easy things to make with flour.

2 large bags of masa. You know, the stuff to make tortillas...

1 large bag of sugar. Look for the largest you can find and afford.

1 bag of salt. Read the labels, some salts are not meant for human consumption.

1 large bag of rolled oats.

1 gallon of oil. I always just get vegetable oil, but I know some prefer olive oil or other kinds. Your choice.

Water. I can't even put a specific amount, but I'd aim for a couple weeks worth. You could figure it as 1 gallon per person in your family or group, per day. Also take into consideration that you'll need additional water for cooking and hygiene.


Non-Food Items:

Vitamin Supplements with the 100% daily vitamin intake amount (like One-A-Day, but I'd look for off brand). These aren't meant to keep you alive in place of food, but are great to for providing whatever vitamins you may be lacking. You should be able to find these in bulk of like 400ct.

2 ways to purify water. Look into purification filters, chemical treatments, or tablets. Remember solar purification and boiling also works, and remember that I mentioned the condensation and rainwater collection in a previous post.

2 ways to start a fire. Definitely stock up on matches and lighters, but consider things like the battery and steel wool method or even a striking tool.

First Aid Kit. You can buy a pre-made, or make your own. This is what's in mine.

The best LED Flashlight you can afford. It would be ideal to get one per member, but at the very least get 1 good flashlight. Don't forget batteries. try to invest in at least 10 changes worth of batteries.

1 wool blanket. Make sure it's 100% wool, and get one for each person in your family or group. They're fire retardant and will be warm even if wet.

1 case of the commercial size rolls of toilet paper. You can buy a 12 pack of the very big rolls that you find in gas stations online or at local janitorial supply dealers. Just check around for the best prices.

2 tarps

50+ feet of some kind of jute twine, para cord, or strong thinner rope of your choice.

Corded Phone. If you have a regular home phone service and the power goes down, you can usually still use the corded phone without electricity. This won't work with a digital phone service though.

Multi-tool

Survival knife

250 round of ammunition. If you have a primary home defense weapon, this would be a good start.


After you get this initial bit of things purchased and stored away, you'll feel a bit more at ease. You'll have food for a reasonable amount of time with the things in this list alone, depending on how many people are in your family or group, and the basic supplies will cover some main necessities. Of course there are still so many things that would be needed for longer periods of time, but this would be great for natural disasters where you're stuck in your home until things get back to order. You can add to your foods, supplies, and necessities over time as you see fit.




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Can you think of something I left out? I'd love to hear your comments if you have any. I'm interested in checking out other blogs, sites, and YouTube channels that I may not have stumbled across yet, so please share yours (or your favorites). Please take a second to subscribe if you haven't and don't forget to share this with others who may find this useful.

Monday, June 16, 2014

How To Open a Can Without A Can Opener Or Tools

 It's been a couple days since I've posted anything, so I thought I would share this video I made a few days ago. I watched a short video of someone else opening a can of tuna on cement, but noticed the timing was edited... made me curious as to just how long it would actually take. I recorded this from start to finish, and it only took a couple minutes. After I got it opened, I wasn't so sure how safe it would be to actually eat. So, thinking that there may be slivers of the can inside I took it in, dumped it onto a plate, and inspected it. I was surprised not to find anything inside, so I went ahead and added this to some chicken soup I made that day.



We probably all have can openers right now, but should some desperate scenario arise in the future and I'm without one, this would be my go-to method... unless I'm in some deep woods bug out scenario where there isn't any cement around, of course.









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Friday, June 13, 2014

Building A Basic First Aid Kit

Let's talk about first aid kits... whether you're able to hunker down in your home, or are driven to evacuate, you're going to need one. First response teams won't be so widely available, hospitals could be overfilled or inaccessible in a natural or man-made disaster, and seeking medical assistance in a hospital during some sort of an outbreak could be more life threatening than your initial need for assistance.

One first aid kit per person in your family or group is ideal, at least I think so. Aside from just building or buying a first aid kit, I encourage you, and anyone else in your group of eligible age, to check into local First Aid, CPR, AED, and Aquatics classes. Contacting you local Red Cross is a great place to start. You should also include a chart or booklet on first aid procedures, along with a pharmaceutical book or drug guide in your kit.


Here are the basic items you should be sure are included in your first aid kit (alphabetically ordered):

Ace Bandages (assorted sizes)

Antibacterial Gel and/or Wipes

Antibiotics (some ethnic stores sell them without a prescription, fish antibiotics are also an option, neither needs a prescription - don't forget that you'll need a pharmaceutical or drug guide to understand doses, warnings, etc. - these are only for desperate situations)

Anti-fungal Cream (helps athletes foot, jock itch, nail fungus)

Anti-fungal Foot Powder

Aspirin (relieves minor aches and pains, especially arthritis)

Aspirin - Bayer (taken at first sign of a heart attack, get the chewable)

Benadryl (relieves allergy symptoms, soar throat and irritation, also for motion sickness)

Bottled Water (at least one 20 oz bottle)

Butterfly Wound Closures

Cold Packs

Duct Tape (you never know)

Feminine Pads & Tampons (obviously for the women, also pads for wound dressings, tampons for packing deep punctures, gunshot wounds, etc.)

Flashlight (extra batteries)

Gel Toe Sleeve (blisters on toes)

Heat Packs

Hydrocortisone Cream (relieves minor skin irritation, poison ivy, insect bites)

Hydrogen Peroxide (topical cleaner, dental cleaner)

Ibuprofen (reduces swelling, reduces fever, pain reliever)

Imodium (anti-diarrhea)

Iodine (topical cleaner)

Isopropyl Alcohol (topical cleaner)

Lighter and Matches (could be used for sanitizing needles, scalpel)

Magnifying Glass

Medical Tape (waterproof)

Metamucil (laxative, dietary fiber)

Multi-Tool/Knife

Muscinex and Muscinex DM (can break up chest congestion before infection sets in)

Nail Clippers (small and large)

Non-stick Band-Aids (package with assorted sizes)

Orthopedic Felt (relieves pressure from foot blisters)

Pepto-Bismol (nausea, heartburn, indigestion, upset stomach, diarrhea... you've heard the song)

Petroleum Jelly and/or Zinc Oxide (I'd get both, protects skin- chaffing, diaper rash, etc.)

Saline Solution (eye wash, wound care)

Scissors

Space blankets (aka Mylar blanket)

Sterile Gauze Pads (I'd go with a pack of each size you can find, from 2x2 and up to 5x9)

Sterile Gauze Rolls (these come in a variety of sizes and lengths also)

Sterile Gloves (if you can't find some that are individually wrapped, make sure you have a zip lock baggy to put them in after opened)

Super Glue

Thermometer

Triple Antibiotic (treats and prevents infections from minor cuts, scrapes)

Tweezers

Tylenol (relieves pain from headaches, muscle aches, other aches and pains)

Water Bottle with Built-In Filter

White Towels, Hand Towels, Washcloths

Zip Lock Bags (for putting unused items in to keep sterile after opened)


Don't let your first aid kit stop with the list I provided, you'll think of more things to add along the way. The
more things you have quick access to, the better. It's also a good idea to look into pre-built kits for more critical situations and study up on how to use whichever ones you include. There's a great assortment of online video tutorials if you can't find nearby classes to take. Even if you aren't sure you could go through with any of the procedures now, you'll probably be able to muster up the courage if it comes down to it during desperate times... especially if it ends up being your own child or a loved one's life hanging on the line.


A Couple Additional Pre-Built Kits To Consider:

Gunshot Wound Kit

Snake Bite Kit

Surgical Kit

Suture Kit (or needles with waxed thread)

Trauma Kit






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What's in your first aid kit if you already have one made? What else do you think should be added to mine? There are a lot of things to choose from and I'm interested in hearing your ideas. I'm also interested in checking out other blogs and sites that I may not have stumbled across yet, so please share your favorite if you have one. Please take a second to subscribe, share this with others who may find this useful, and don't forget to comment.

Tuesday, June 10, 2014

How To Start a Fire With Steel Wool and 9-volt Battery

Since I mentioned starting a fire with steel wool and a battery in part 2 of the Basic Survival Skills Series, I decided to make a video to show you how simple it really is. This is my first video so it isn't the best one you'll find, but with time I'll get better at making them.





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Monday, June 9, 2014

Basic Survival Skills Series: Part 3 - Water Filtration & Purification

By now I'm sure we all know that we can last weeks without food. Living without water, however, is a completely different story... you probably knew that too. Someone of well health that isn't in an extremely hot or cold environment can last about 3 days without water on average... maybe a couple days longer, but I wouldn't push your luck. No matter how much you already have stored, learning to find, gather, filter, and purify your own water is a crucial survival skill. It's a good idea to check out and add a variety of purification tablets, filtration and purification systems, and even bleach to your supplies, but let's discuss what to do if you're without any of these things. Part 3 of the Basic Survival Skills Series is going to cover some unique ways to gather water, how to make a natural filter to remove sediment, and then the basic boil version and a sun version of purification. Let's get started.



Gathering Water: Being near a natural water source is helpful, but let's discuss some ways to collect water if you aren't. These ways aren't enough to re-hydrate an army, but in a critical situation it could save your life.

Option #1 - You'll need (1) something to dig with, (2) a preferably clear plastic sheeting or tarp, (3) some type of container, (4) a 4 or 5 foot long tube that you can drink from, and (5) a rock about the size of a baseball. The earlier in the day this can get set up, the better. Sunlight is needed to make this work.

* Choose a grassy area that's in sunlight a majority of the day, if grass or weeds are able to grow than more than likely it's somewhat moist under the surface.

*Being careful to save the top layer of non-poisonous grass and/or weeds, dig a hole in the shape of a bowl that's about 2 feet deep and 3 to 3.5 feet wide. In the center of the hole's floor, dig another hole about 4 to 6 inches deeper with a flat base that's just big enough to fit your container in.

*Mash some patches of the grass/weeds you saved along the walls of your hole. Doing this provides more condensation in the hole.

* Place your container in the spot you dug to hold it in place.

* If you're going to use a drinking tube, place one end of it all the way into the container and run the rest of the tube up the side and out the top of the main hole. Let the tube rest on the ground outside the hole.

* Lay your plastic sheeting over the hole and start covering the perimeter with the dirt that was dug out of the ground to weigh the plastic in place (make sure you don't cover the drinking tube if you used one). As you do this, make sure there is enough slack in the plastic so it can sag at least 15 or so inches.

* Place the rock on top of the plastic sheeting right above the container. This will form an inverted dome which guides the condensation to drip into the container.

You can drink directly from the tube if you use one, or you can just open the plastic and remove the container once a day, depending on how long you're at your location. Like I said earlier, this methods won't provide enough water for an army, but this system could provide about a quart a day. The water won't need to be purified, but it'll taste a bit like dirt and the grass or weeds that are covering the hole's walls... better than nothing, right?


Option #2 - You'll need (1) a non-poisonous tree or bush that's in, or almost in, direct sunlight, (2) a plastic baggy, (3) a rock that's about the size of a gold ball, and (4) something to tie with (you could even use a stem from a weed or a braid a few blades of long grass if you don't have any twine). You'll want to set this system up as soon as possible, morning is great so it can gather throughout the day.

* Put the rock inside the bag, then slide the bag over the end of a branch tucking the leaves inside. The rock will work as a weight that provides a lower point that the water can form in.

* Making sure you get the opening of the baggy as close as you can to the branch itself, tie it shut tightly with a piece of jute cord or whatever you can find to tie it with. It's important that you tie it tight, the less air that can move through the opening, the more the heat will build up causing more condensation (even in cold temperatures as long as the sun is out).

* As the sun beats down on the bag, moisture from the leaves will form condensation in the bag, and as it builds it'll turn into water that can be drank without any further purification.

You should set this system up on multiple branches to gather more water. Some suggest poking a small hole in the bottom of the bag for the water to drain into a container, but I wouldn't. I'd worry about it being windy and losing drops of water in the wind as the branches blow around. Every drop counts so it's your call. I set this up in the tree in my yard one night and let it set all night and throughout the next day and was able to almost fill a pint size bottle.


Option #3 - We can't control when it's going to rain, but if the sky looks like it's ready to pour (or even just sprinkle) you'll want to get this set up. Even an inch of rainfall could gather 20+ gallons on an 8x5 foot tarp. All you need is (1) a tarp, (2) a couple trees, (3) some twine, rope, or para-cord, (4) a bucket or container(s), and a rock that will fit inside your bucket or container. You wouldn't want to set this up if there was a nuclear or chemical disaster, but otherwise it would be a great idea for gathering larger amounts of water. Here's what to do...

* Tie two neighboring corners of your tarp with two separate strands of rope, twine, or para-cord. Make sure to use long enough pieces to reach two trees that are near each other.

* You'll want to pull the tarp as tight as you can without ripping the corner rings or anything open. It doesn't matter how far the trees are away from each other as long as you have enough rope to stretch. This should be elevated at least a bit higher than your bucket or container so it guides the rainfall.

* Place your container a couple feet before the untied end of the tarp being sure that that end, along with the loose corners, are able to be tucked into your container. Put your rock in the bottom of the container on top of the tarp and let the rain do the rest.

You may want to let the rain rinse off the tarp and rock (or whatever you use as the weight inside your container) for a minute and then dump the container before setting it back up to collect the water you are going to use, this will get any dust and dirt off the surface of the tarp and rock... you may still want to filter it depending on how windy it is, leaves and stuff may blow in during the rain. Aside from that, rainwater is just fine to drink without purifying.


Filtration: Of course water from any natural source should be purified before drinking it, but since that water will usually be a bit muddy (to say the least), you'll want to filter it first. Pouring the water through a clean sock or shirt would work well, but if you only have the clothes on your back and aren't so sure you want to use something that you may or may not have been stranded somewhere for a few days in, there are other options. You'll just need a few things, I'll explain the options as I list them.

* Find a container. If you've brought one with you or can find one, a 2-liter plastic bottle or a large (coffee type) can will work great. You could also use a gallon size plastic bag if you have one (you should always bring plastic baggies in your bug out bags). If you're using the plastic bottle, cut the bottom of it off as straight as you can and use the pouring opening as the part your filtered water comes out of. If you're using a can, you'll need to poke some small homes in the bottom, about 10 should do fine.

* If you don't have any of these things, you can make a natural container out of birch bark if you can find some, or even some large green leaves (make sure they aren't poisonous leaves). If you use bark or leaves, you'll need to roll it in a cone shape with a very tiny opening at the bottom and then tie it with twine or some long braided blades of grass to keep it from unfolding.

* Try to find a way to suspend your filter above a clean container that your water will filter into if you can. Tie it to a low hanging branch or even throw together some sort of tripod out of branches. This isn't mandatory, it just makes it easier.

*  Now it's time to build the filter itself. The first layer will need to be something that'll keep the sand from falling out since that's what you'll be using for the majority of the filtration. You could use some sort of cotton material if you have some, otherwise wadded up grass works just fine, just make sure it isn't poisonous.

*On top of the cotton or grass, you'll want to put a couple inches worth of small pebbles or gravel (not any oily gravel).

* I'm not sure how much I trust this step and I've never tried it, but in desperate times you may need to. If you aren't able to purify your water by boiling it or setting it in the sun, you'll need some charcoal. If you've had a fire, crunch up some of the burnt wood into small gravel size pieces (not into dust) and put a couple inches on top of the pebbles.

* The next layer of your filter will need to be sand, it's a great natural filter. Put enough in to fill the container about 2/3 of the way.

*Pour the water you've gathered through your filter and let it drain into a clean container. If the water isn't clear after the first run through, just repeat it as many times as needed.


Purification: After you have filtered the water to your liking, you'll need to purify it. Here are two simple ways of doing so if you don't have any purification tablets or bleach.

Option #1: If you're able to start a fire, which I would hope you can if you've read and practiced the fire starting methods from part 2, you can boil your water to purify it. If you have a pot then you're in luck, but otherwise a tin or aluminum can will do just fine. If you haven't brought one with you, more than likely you can find one that someone else has left as litter. Just rinse it out as best you can. Pour your filtered water into whatever you are using to boil in and bring the water to a boil over your fire. According to the CDC, after your water has came to a boil you need to keep it at a rolling boil for 1 minute (or 3 minutes for altitudes above 6,500 feet). I'd feel safer letting it be at a rolling boil for 3 to 5 minutes though. It's your call. After it boils, remove it from the fire and let it sit until it cools. This will also let any sediment that may not have been filtered settle to the bottom. Then it's safe to drink.


Option #2: If you can't start a fire or don't have something to boil in, you can purify your water in the sun.   Bacteria like scherichia coli, salmonella, vibrio cholera, shigella flexneri, yersinia enterocolitica, and campylobacter jejuni can be taken care of with 6 hours of sun exposure, along with rotovirus and the parasite giardia, with a little longer exposure (10 hours) you can remove the parasite cryptosporidium.

You'll need (1) a clear plastic bottle (not glass) and (2) the sun. It doesn't need to be hot outside for this to work either, UV-A is what does the job, not the heat. Make sure it's a clear Poly Ethylene Terephthalate bottle, with recycle code #1 on it. It'll be stamped like this:

* Very easy purification. Just pour your filtered water into the bottle (a 2-liter soda or soft drink bottle works best, remove any labeling), make sure the lid is screwed on tight, and lay it on it's side in direct sunlight.

* If the sky is clear or has very little clouding, let it sit for at least 6 hours, but you may want to wait 10 hours just to be sure you get everything (as mentioned for the possibility of the cryptosporidium parasite). If there's an overcast of clouds, you'll need to wait up to 2 days if it doesn't clear up to full sun exposure for a solid 6 to 10 hours during that time period. After you've left it for the time period needed, it will be purified and able to be drank.


If you haven't yet, you need to set up a bag for emergency situations (a.k.a. a bug out bag) and keep it in your vehicle or on you at all times. At the very least, items to gather, filter, and purify water should be on the top of the list of things included. Practicing these systems now will familiarize you with setting them up. Don't wait until a situation does take place to try and remember what you just read. Your first attempt at these may not turn out right, causing anything from dehydration to diarrhea, which could very easily lead to death.





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I hope this post has taught you enough to keep yourself from dehydrating in a desperate situation. These are the few methods I'm familiar with, but I'm sure that a little research could provide you with more options. Remember that I'm interested in checking out other prepper and survival blogs and sites that I may not have stumbled across yet, so please share your favorites. Please take a second to subscribe, share this with others who may find this useful, and don't forget to comment.

Wednesday, June 4, 2014

Basic Survival Skills Series: Part 2 - How To Start A Fire

Knowing how to start a fire is probably one of the first skills that come to mind when asked about survival, and it should be. Fire is used for light and warmth, heating food, purifying water, and even protection from predator animals depending on where you are. You should probably always carry a lighter or matches with you, but since things can get broken, misplaced, wet, or just eventually run out, it's probably an even better idea to know how to start a fire without them. This post is going to focus on that, along with some tips for preparing an area for your fire, some great options for a tinder nest, and how to put your fire out before you leave that area. The first thing you'll need when trying to start a fire is patience, and lots of it. It's easy to get discouraged when using these methods because they're no where near as quick or easy as starting one with a lighter and matches, but if I can do it, so can you. I'm going to try to explain all of this in simple step-by step instructions, no pictures from Paint like I did with the temporary shelters (I know, you'll miss them).



Step #1: Locate Your Area

Take into consideration where your shelter is set up (if you have one), along with nearby trees, low hanging branches, roots, dry leaves, etc. when choosing an area to burn at. Try to set up at least 10 feet from all flammable areas and objects if possible. If there are lots of leaves or pine needles, you're going to need to try and clear these out of the way as best you can with your foot or something.


Step #2: Prepare Your Area

There are two ways I suggest preparing an area to burn in. If you're not worried about being seen, follow the first option. If you are trying to keep low profile, I suggest following the second.

Option 1 - Above Ground Burning: After you've chosen and cleared your area, gather enough stones to make a ring that's at least 30 inches in diameter. Stones that are at least the size of a softball work great, but you'll just have to see what you can find to work with.  If you can't find any stones, it's ideal to dig a circle about 30 inches in diameter and at least a few inches deep. This stone ring or hole will help keep the fire contained to that specific area. After this, you're ready to start building your fire.

Option 2 - Dakota Fire Pit: You'll need to dig two holes for this fire pit. However large the diameter of these holes are is how far apart the holes need to be from each other too. I'd go with about 9 inch diameter on each hole, and dig them 9 inches apart. This tends to be a good size for warmth and cooking on, you aren't trying to provide light remember, this method is for low profile. Dig each of your holes down about 12 inches deep and then make a tunnel by scooping out the area between them under ground. The top of the two holes should be the only above ground openings. After this, you're ready to build a fire in the bottom of one of the holes. Build it in the side that is farthest away from the direction the wind is blowing so the other hole acts as an air intake to keep the fire going.


Step #3: Tinder Nest

If you haven't carried something with you, like paper (shredded), dryer lint, sanitizing wipes of at least 70% alcohol, cotton balls coated in Vaseline, or a jute cord or rope that you can fray (there are lots of options), you'll need to find something in your surroundings. People also suggest charred linen, but I've honestly never tried using it. Never made it, never tried to find it somewhere to buy or anything. You can check into that yourself. Some great natural tinder materials are dry grass and leaves, dry cattail leaves or fluff, dry pine needles, shaved bark, or anything else that you can locate that's dry and catches fire easily if a spark hits it. Once you've found these things you need to carefully mold them into a bird nest shape, very carefully. Don't pack them together tight because it'll make it harder for oxygen to move through it and it won't light as well. Just set it to the side in a dry place once you have it ready. Put some extra tinder nest materials to the side too, you'll want to thread them into your kindling tee-pee later.


Step #4: Fuel From Fallen Branches

You're going to need to gather kindling and firewood in a few different sizes to build your fire and keep it going. Really aim for the driest fallen branches you can find. There may be plenty on the ground, but you can also look up into the trees for dead branches that have gotten hung up in living branches. If you have an ax or hatchet you could even split bigger logs into smaller sizes. As far as sizes needed, find twigs that are a quarter of an inch in diameter or less, some that are around an inch thick, and you'll also need some that are a couple inches (and up to wrist size) in diameter. Separate the kindling and firewood into three groups according to their thickness and set them near your fire pit so you can grab them to add to you fire as needed.


Step #5: Set Up The Kindling

Now that you've prepared your area, made a tinder nest, and gathered kindling and firewood, you're ready to start your fire. Using some of the thinnest twigs you gathered and some more of the tinder nest type materials, make a tee-pee shape in your fire pit. Be sure that the base of it has an opening big enough to stick your original tinder nest into, you'll start the kindling on fire by sticking the tinder nest inside the base.


Step #6: Start Your Fire

I'm going to cover a couple methods here, so I will just title them and get on with the process.

Flint and Steel Spark Method: (If you haven't bought the sparking tools)

Flint: You can find this almost anywhere in the world, but some of the most common places to find flint is on land that used to be under water, or near river and lake shores where there are a lot of rocks laying around. Some of the best types of rocks to use are quartz, chert, agate, jade, and carnelian. Don't worry about trying to learn which is which if you don't already know. If you find a rock, just strike it a few times with your striker and if sparks fly, it'll work. Since the sparks come from slivers of burning steel, you'll want to break the rock down a bit, the sharper you can get one edge of your flint, the better the spark.

Steel: You can use high carbon steel, alloyed steal, or even iron pyrite to create a spark, just make sure it's not stainless steel. A closed pocket knife works well, so do old files. If you're out in the middle of no where and don't have something to use as a striker, some rocks can be struck together and create a spark. You'll have to test strike some until you find them, but they are there.

How It's Done: Have you ever bent a wire hanger back and forth kind of fast and then touched the part that was bent? It gets Hot! It's kind of the same sense here... when the flint strikes the steel, the energy of the friction converts to heat and that's what makes the steel shaving hot.
More simply, I hold the steel in one hand and strike the flint (rock) in a downward acute angle against it aiming the sparks towards my tinder nest. You could hold the rock and strike the steel against it if you want, but it doesn't seem to aim the sparks in the right direction for me. You'll just have to see which is right for you, just make sure the spark is directed to your tinder nest (or char cloth if you are using one). Once your tinder nest starts smoking a bit from the burning embers (sparks), you'll want to blow on it to turn it to a flame. Once you've done that, set it under your kindling tee-pee and continue blowing until you catch the kindling on fire. Continue adding kindling, small sticks, and bigger pieces as needed in a small to large order to build your fire stronger. I can usually get a decent fire going with this spark method in 2 minutes or less. Practice can make you much faster, but 2 minutes is still pretty quick.


Battery and Steel Wool Method:

Easy one, if you happen to have them with you. (If you do carry these, don't keep them in the same area... especially not your pocket, you don't want to burst into flames anywhere near your crotch area.)

Battery: I'm told that any battery will work for this, but I've only tried with a 9 volt battery and it works super fast.

Steel Wool: The key is to find the finest steel wool you can.

How It's Done: I'd put the tinder nest under your kindling tee-pee first because this will go quickly. Touch both battery terminals to the steel wool and run it back and forth across the surface. The steel wool will catch the batteries 'electricity' and start turning red, blowing on it a bit will help the heat spread. This can be done in just a couple seconds, then stick it with your tinder nest. Blow on it until it catches a flame and then build your fire up like explained earlier.


Magnifying Glass Method: (or even a pair of reading glasses works in the same concept). All you need is the magnifying glass and your tinder nest... and the sun, this only works in the day time.

How It's Done: Simply hold the magnifying glass at an angle so the sun will shine through creating a bright dot on your tinder nest. Adjust the angle and distance your magnifying glass is away from the tinder nest, the smaller the dot you can create, the quicker it'll burn. As soon as it starts to smoke, try blowing on it a bit to help it turn to flame and make it spread. Then build your fire up like explained earlier.


There are also friction methods that can be used to start a fire. I find these very time consuming, but in a desperate situation you may need to try them anyway.

Bow Drill Method:

Rather than trying to write these instructions out for making a bow drill, because it's hard to follow without a visual, watch this video on making a bow drill. (I don't own this video)

Once you've made this bow drill, started using it, and have created the embers, you'll need to dump them off onto your tinder nest, blow on them until you can get a flame to start, and then stick it under your kindling tee-pee. Then you build your fire up from there.


Hand Drill Method:

Another friction method similar to the bow drill, is a hand drill. Exact same concept as the bow drill except you don't need a bow or the handhold. This may be the hardest method, I've still never been able to start a fire like this and I've tried countless times. Maybe you can do it.

According to those who have succeeded at this, all you do is copy the base board that you would for a bow drill, and use a (dry) stick that's about a half inch in diameter. You press the one end of the stick against the base board and quickly spin it back and forth between your palms/hands until it heats, makes an ember, and then you dump it out on your tinder nest and so on like the bow drill method. If you try this and succeed, please do come back and let me know.


Step #7: Putting Out Your Fire

Two easy ways. (1) Pour some water over it if you have access to some, of course, or (2) cover it with dirt and smother it out. Yep, those are self explanatory.


Before I go, I want to share one more thing. How to waterproof matches, because it's ridiculous paying so much for the ones in the stores. I don't know if there are different ways to do this, but here is the simple step-by-step to the way I do it.

Step #1: Melt down a small amount of candle wax in a can. Not a big green bean can or anything, something like a tuna or Vienna Weenies can.

Step #2: Dip a wooden match about half way into the wax (the striking side of course). Just dip it in and pull it out, it don't need to sit in there or anything.

Step #3: As soon as you pull it out of the wax start blowing on it... Quick! That way it cools the wax before it has a chance to soak into the head and ruin it.

Step #4: After you have waterproofed and cooled them, stick them into some kind of container. I use an Altoids can.

That's all it takes, I don't even dip the other end in wax. When you go to use these matches, you'll need to peel a bit of the wax away from the side of the match head that you are going to strike. You'll enjoy being able to light a fire even after everything else may have been rained on or gotten soggy from wading through a creek bed.





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OK, those are the few methods I am familiar with (and one I've repeatedly failed at). Since I did buy a camera the other day, I will be making some tutorial videos to upload soon, I hope you'll come back to check them out. Do you know any other ways to start a fire without matches or a lighter and have succeeded at them? If so, please comment below and share your experience and tips. Remember that I'm interested in checking out other prepper blogs and sites that I may not have stumbled across yet, so please share your favorites. Please take a second to subscribe, share this with others who may find this useful, and don't forget to comment.






Tuesday, June 3, 2014

Important Note (1)

Just wanted to stop in for a second to catch you all up so you didn't think I abandoned you. I'm trying to wrap up part 2 of the Basic Survival Skills Series so I can get it posted, but I'm not sure if I'll actually get it finished today. It may not be posted until tomorrow. I originally intended to have the whole series finished by now and be moving onto the next topic, but I was called to make a last minute trip to Dodge City over the weekend. Between the hours and hours of driving I did, not getting a chance to sleep for about 48 hours, and then trying to catch up on spending time with the kids and straightening my home back up yesterday, I fell behind in everything else. I did buy a camera while I was out though, so I'm looking forward to being able to post tutorial videos real soon.

With all that being said, I'll get part 2 posted as soon as I finish it and I hope you'll check back in soon to see when it's available. Until then, look around at other peoples' prepping and survival blogs while you're waiting... knowledge = survival... no matter where you get it from.